2024年10月8日，西班牙，圣塞巴斯蒂安 （San Sebastian，Spain）。
厨师Luis Lera和Edorta Lamo因对乡村美食的热情而团结在一起，他们捍卫乡村美食，反对同质化，甚至反抗。今天，他们正在烹饪鸽子和野猪，这是他们最喜欢的两种产品。
当我回到我的村庄时，Lera*是我唯一的参照”，Arrea！*（Kanpezu，Álava）的厨师Edorta Lamo说，他解释了这两家餐厅之间存在的众多协同效应，尽管在地域和文化上存在差异。事实是，多年来，来自Lera*（Castroverde de Campos，萨莫拉）的厨师一直是正在消失的极其丰富的乡村文化的最后堡垒，尤其是在他所在的地区。我们需要举办像Terrae或我们的Campo&Montaña这样的活动，让传统和亲近的概念回到客人的脑海中。
对于Edorta来说，重要的是“这些价值观有助于在这个全球化的世界中建立一个更具代表性和更公平的初级部门，各机构必须共同努力简化有利于狩猎和采集的法规”，Luis也有同感，因为“这个系统太累了，它把我们带出了这个系统，这只会导致同质化。如果政府希望我们都一样，吃同样的食物，他们可以把我排除在外。我想把它给我们的东西还给这片土地，我想自由地这样做，”他强调道。他还推出了一系列乡村明星来帮助他实现这一目标，包括厨师爱德华多·鲁伊斯、纳乔·索拉纳、南杜·朱巴尼、胡安·卡洛斯·加西亚和玛丽亚·索利维拉斯，以及Edorta。
从野猪到步态
两位厨师点燃了Kursaal的炉灶，展示了他们用两种食物烹饪的多功能性，他们对此表示非常钦佩。首先是鸽子，用吉尔达腌制，用蜂蜡做成面包屑，或用鹅肝炖在波本糖里，这些都是Edorta在Arrea的主题秀的一部分！路易斯·勒拉（Luis Lera）随后推出了其他令人回味的美食，如凤尾鱼鸽鞑靼和有机扎莫拉诺面包；将鸽子腿放入水中、白兰地和蔬菜中煮熟，然后油炸；还有一只鸽子胸肉，用大蒜、胡椒、百里香和泰国青木瓜腌制12小时，配以烤茄子和炸鼠尾草。
然后是野猪，“我更喜欢野猪，因为它会产生更多的脂肪”，Edorta解释说，他用这种动物制作火腿和里脊，“在用地衣通气之前按摩，以突出森林的味道”；熏牛肉等香肠，用腹部、野猪头和烟熏舌头制成。他还向我们展示了烤鼻子和烤小腿，以及一道用肝脏和头部做成的美丽的山馅饼，还有一些野猪屑，模仿森林里的泥土，放在一丛蕨类植物上，还有一些烤苹果干叶子。就Lera而言，他还展示了如何“充分利用所有游戏，享受它的技巧和美味，少做点什么”，提供辣椒酱炖舌和烤辣椒里脊。他最后烤了一个猪嘴，配以孜然猪嘴酱。
Lera and Lamo: 'We want a prosperous rural environment with an identity that remains free'
The chefs Luis Lera and Edorta Lamo are united by their passion for rural gastronomy, which they defend against homogenisation to the point of rebellion. Today they are cooking pigeon and wild boar, two of their favourite products.
When I returned to my village, Lera* was my only reference", says Edorta Lamo, chef at Arrea!* (Kanpezu, Álava), explaining the numerous synergies that exist between the two establishments, despite the difference in territory and culture. The truth is that the chef from Lera* (Castroverde de Campos, Zamora) has for years been the last bastion, especially in his area, of an incredibly rich rural culture that is disappearing. We need a proliferation of events like Terrae or our Campo & Montaña, which bring the concepts of tradition and proximity back to the minds of guests.
For Edorta, the important thing is that "these values contribute to having a primary sector that is more representative and fairer in this globalised world, and the institutions must work together to streamline the regulations that favour hunting and gathering", an idea shared by Luis, because "the system is so tired that it takes us out of the system, and this only leads to homogeneity. If the administration wants us all to be the same and eat the same food, they can count me out. I want to give back to the land what it has given us, and I want to be free to do so," he said emphatically. And he has unveiled a selection of rural stars to help him in this endeavour, including chefs Eduardo Ruiz, Nacho Solana, Nandu Jubany, Juan Carlos García and María Solivellas, as well as Edorta.
From the wild boar to the gait
And the two chefs lit up the Kursaal's stoves to demonstrate the versatility of their cooking with two foods for which they profess great admiration. First up was pigeon, cured in a gilda, in the form of crumbs with beeswax or stewed in a bonbon with foie gras, creations that are part of Edorta's theme show at Arrea! Luis Lera followed with other evocative delicacies such as pigeon tartar with anchovies and organic Zamorano bread; a leg of pigeon cooked in water, brandy and vegetables and then fried; and a breast of pigeon 'marinated for 12 hours in garlic, pepper, thyme and Thai green papaya' with grilled aubergine and fried sage.
Then came the wild boar, "I prefer wild boar because it produces more fat", Edorta explained, an animal from which he made prosciutto and loin, "massaged before aeration with lichen to bring out the flavour of the forest"; sausages such as pastrami, made with the belly, boar's head and smoked tongue. He also showed us roasted snout and roasted shank, as well as a beautiful dish of mountain pâté made with liver and head, accompanied by some wild boar crumbs imitating the earth of the forest on a grass of fern shoots, and some dried leaves made of baked apple. Lera, for his part, also demonstrated how to "make the most of all game, enjoying its finesse and delicacy, by doing little with it", by serving braised tongue with pepper sauce and a roasted pepper loin. He finished with a grilled snout, accompanied by a sauce of pork snout with cumin.
