2024年10月8日，西班牙，圣塞巴斯蒂安 （San Sebastian，Spain）。这是一个前所未有的挑战，就目前而言，厨师的聪明才智继续战胜人工智能，人工智能在高级烹饪中已经显示出其局限性。Ricard Camarena和这项由物理学家Eneko Axpe、化学家Laia Badal和Alícia基金会厨师Daniel Barrionuevo领导的技术昨天相互挑战，使用相同的指导方针、技术和成分准备开胃菜、主菜和甜点。这三项提案由记者JoséCarlos Capel、Mediaset内容总监Manuel Villanueva和厨师Joan Roca组成的陪审团进行评判。Camarena赢得了前两道菜，甜点打成平局。
第一道菜必须结合与会者决定的五种食材，如金枪鱼、无花果和栗子，而主菜是鳕鱼，必须使用两种技术：腌制和烘烤。对于甜点，胡萝卜蛋糕的重新诠释是最受欢迎的选择。评审团认为，前两个人工智能提案缺乏灵魂，尽管Joan Roca承认这个入门级产品可以“融入”米其林星级餐厅。
Camarena承认，他更多地受到直觉而不是反思的指导，可能是因为他只有24小时的时间来想出这三个食谱。AI？他留下了一些有趣的细节：你可以看到它在高级烹饪中的局限性，它为执行订单的人留下了解释的空间，他在准备鳕鱼时选择了巴斯克传统，他知道这一挑战将在圣塞巴斯蒂安美食节的框架内举行。他也认识Camarena。”Axpe自豪地说，尽管“失败了”，但我能与这样的厨师竞争，这对我来说似乎很残酷。这让我大吃一惊。
Axpe本人在Julen Baz（Garena、Dima、Bizkaia）和安全系统专家Jon Sola的陪同下，推出了一项发明，由于其速度和可持续性，这项发明可以彻底改变烹饪：一种食物闭环的烧烤系统。支持该工具的两个数据已经获得专利：一公斤txuleta可以在十秒钟内烤熟，在烧烤架上烤一个汉堡的二氧化碳排放量相当于在这个烤架上烤4500多个汉堡。
一段有很多站的旅程
今天在礼堂度过的这一天，是一段不断探索美食风味和理解美食方式的旅程。它始于Donostia，在那里，阿根廷人Paulo Airaudo（圣塞瓦斯蒂安的米其林二星Amelia）带回了具有象征意义的Ibai餐厅，旨在改进最传统的巴斯克美食。这位科尔多瓦厨师创造了三个食谱，完美地说明了这一雄心壮志。Eneko Atxa（米其林三星Azurmendi，Larrabetzu，Bizkaia）想证实“味道是一种无形的成分，但非常存在。香气是幸福的前奏”这一观点。Atxa花了数年时间研究、创新和完善将香气转化为可食用物质的技术。
礼堂还欢迎了葡萄牙美食最伟大的拥护者之一JoséAvillez（米其林二星Belcanto，里斯本）。他一直负责更新最传统的食谱，多年来，这让他失去了同胞的仇恨和威胁，他们认为他正在摧毁最经典的葡萄牙美食。Luis Alberto Lera（米其林一星Lera、Castroverde de Campos、萨莫拉）和Edorta Lamo（米其林一星Arrea！、Kanpezu、Álava）的演讲呼吁他们每天都在努力恢复农村环境。
Fabien Ferré来自法国，他是米其林三星级厨师中最年轻的一位，而且他一次就做到了。在米其林三星La Table du Castellet（France Le Castellet），他提供了一种没有寄生虫的美食，没有那些掩盖他人优点的产品或口味。
今天上午旅程的最后一站是秘鲁，Virgilio Martínez（利马中部）和Pía León（利马Kjolle）在海拔近4000米的地方，正在恢复传统的秘鲁美食，并从不同的角度看待世界。两位拉丁美洲和世界上最重要的厨师开始探索这片鲜为人知但极具价值的土地的生物多样性。
葡萄牙、Gipuzkoa和意大利。
下午，礼堂的第二天举行了各种各样的演讲，让我们大吃一惊。
Marlene Vieira（Marlene，里斯本）和João Sá（米其林一星Sála，里斯本）将新里斯本带到了库尔萨尔，在那里不同的文化与繁荣的美食融为一体。Andoni Luis Aduriz（米其林二星Mugaritz，Errenteria）总是试图用一点挑衅来激发与会者的思想，他从不缺乏这种挑衅。穆加里茨，在镜子的另一边。“Lo que no se ve”（穆加里茨，在镜子的另一边。你看不到的东西）是一段进入世界的旅程，是现实的逆反射。
本届意大利大会的第一站是在佛罗伦萨，聆听Karime López（Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura饰）讲述来自世界各地的创意。当天的最后一位发言者Rodrigo Castelo（Portugal Santarém的米其林一星ÓBalcão）做了演讲，重点介绍了再生美食、环境以及与生产者的关系。
Ricard Camarena's intuition and talent triumph over artificial intelligence at San Sebastian Gastronomika
It was an unprecedented challenge and, for now, the chef's ingenuity continues to win out over Artificial Intelligence, which has shown its limitations in haute cuisine. Ricard Camarena and this technology, led by physicist Eneko Axpe, chemist Laia Badal and chef Daniel Barrionuevo from the Alícia Foundation, had challenged each other yesterday to prepare a starter, a main course and a dessert using the same guidelines, techniques and ingredients. The three proposals were judged by a jury made up of journalist José Carlos Capel, Manuel Villanueva, general director of content at Mediaset, and chef Joan Roca. Camarena won the first two dishes, and there was a draw (with a tie) for the dessert.
The first dish had to combine five ingredients decided by the congress participants, such as tuna, figs and chestnuts, while the main dish was hake, which had to be prepared using two techniques: salt curing and roasting. For dessert, a reinterpretation of carrot cake was the most popular choice. The jury felt that the first two AI proposals lacked soul, although Joan Roca admitted that this starter could "fit in" in a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Camarena admitted that he was guided more by intuition than reflection, probably because he only had 24 hours to come up with these three recipes. The AI? He left some interesting details: you can see its limitations in haute cuisine, it leaves room for interpretation by the person carrying out his orders, he opted for the Basque tradition in the preparation of the hake and he knew that this challenge would be held in the framework of San Sebastian Gastronomika. He also knew Camarena. 'The fact that I can compete with such a chef seems brutal to me. It blew me away,' said a proud Axpe, despite the 'defeat'.
Axpe himself, accompanied by Julen Baz (Garena*, Dima, Bizkaia) and safety systems specialist Jon Sola, unveiled an invention that could revolutionise cooking thanks to its speed and sustainability: a grill system in which the food closes the circle. Two data that support this tool, which has already been patented: a kilo of txuleta can be grilled in ten seconds and the CO2 emissions of a hamburger cooked on a barbecue are equivalent to more than 4,500 cooked on this griddle.
A journey with many stops
Today's day at the Auditorium has been a continuous journey through flavours and ways of understanding cuisine. It began in Donostia, where the Argentinian Paulo Airaudo (Amelia Restaurant**, San Sebastián) brought back the emblematic Ibai Restaurant with the aim of refining the most traditional Basque cuisine. The Cordoban chef has created three recipes that perfectly illustrate this ambition. For his part, Eneko Atxa (Azurmendi***, Larrabetzu, Bizkaia) wanted to confirm the idea that "flavour is an invisible ingredient, but very present. Aroma is the preamble to happiness". Atxa has spent years researching, innovating and perfecting techniques that transform aromas into something practically edible.
The Auditorium also welcomed José Avillez (Belcanto**, Lisbon), one of the greatest champions of Portuguese cuisine. He has been responsible for updating the most traditional recipes, which for years has cost him the hatred and threats of his countrymen, who thought he was destroying the most classic Portuguese cuisine. The presentation by Luis Alberto Lera (Lera*, Castroverde de Campos, Zamora) and Edorta Lamo (Arrea!*, Kanpezu, Álava) was a plea for the rural environment that they both strive to restore every day.
From France comes Fabien Ferré, the youngest chef to receive three Michelin stars, and he did it in one go. At La Table du Castellet*** (Le Castellet, France), he offers a cuisine without parasites, without those products or flavours that mask the virtues of others.
The last stop of this morning's journey has taken us to Peru, where Virgilio Martínez (Central, Lima) and Pía León (Kjolle, Lima), at an altitude of almost 4,000 metres, are reclaiming the traditional Peruvian cuisine and looking at the world from a different perspective. Two of Latin America's and the world's most important chefs have set out to explore the biodiversity of a little-known but extremely valuable land.
Portugal, Gipuzkoa and Italy.
The second day of the Auditorium surprised us in the afternoon with a variety of presentations.
Marlene Vieira (Marlene, Lisbon) and João Sá (Sála*, Lisbon) brought the new Lisbon to the Kursaal, where different cultures mix with a flourishing gastronomy. Andoni Luis Aduriz (Mugaritz**, Errenteria) always tries to stir the minds of the congress participants with a touch of provocation, which he never lacks. Mugaritz, on the other side of the mirror. Lo que no se ve" (Mugaritz, on the other side of the mirror. What you don't see) is a journey into the world that is the inverse reflection of reality.
The first stop of this edition of the congress in Italy was in Florence to listen to Karime López (Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura*) talk about the ideas that come into her kitchen from all over the world. The last speaker of the day, Rodrigo Castelo (Ó Balcão*, Santarém, Portugal), gave a presentation focusing on regenerative cuisine, the environment and the relationship with producers.
