2024年10月8日，西班牙，圣塞巴斯蒂安 （San Sebastian，Spain）。这位阿根廷厨师创造了三种他想改进的传统巴斯克食谱：龙虾salpicón、txipirones en su tinta和酱汁鳕鱼。
正如伊格纳西奥·梅迪纳（Ignacio Medina）介绍的那样，保罗·亚劳多（Amelia**，Donostia）是一位“不是巴斯克人的巴斯克厨师”。Cordovan（来自阿根廷）在世界各地都有餐馆和明星，但今天他来到Kursaal谈论产品和传统的巴斯克美食，这是他在他的Ibai（Donostia）餐厅所做的最重要的事情，他几个月前重新开业了这家餐厅，在那里传统的力量起着重要作用。
我知道高级烹饪，但我对巴斯克烹饪一无所知。在伊拜，我们努力改进传统的巴斯克美食。为什么我们必须用酱汁煮鳕鱼？他解释道：“我们必须问自己这个问题，因为也许最好把它蒸一下，然后放在酱汁里把它吃完。”这是他演讲的前奏，演讲由三个食谱组成。
第一道菜是咸龙虾。在这个食谱中，“我们寻求一种非常特殊的龙虾质地，活下来的龙虾被杀死，尾巴被冷冻，然后用龙虾油轻轻真空烹饪”。与此同时，爪子被煮熟了。有了这个配方，“我们试图尊重伊拜的食谱，尽管我们以自己的方式制作珊瑚乳液。我们的醋汁更传统，用意大利醋蘸李子核。当季时，我们会搭配一些迷你酸番茄，这是完美的搭配。这是一道简单而传统的菜，”Airaudo说。
第二道菜是txipirones en su tinta（用自己的墨水做的小章鱼）：“我们正在遵循传统，”他警告说。今天早上捕捞的鱿鱼是“一种非常珍贵的产品”。酱汁需要时间，但它是纯粹而简单的传统：大量的洋葱、一点大蒜和青椒，以及我们直接从那不勒斯带来的番茄，它有点甜。我们用烤柠檬汁和一点醋来调味这种传统酱汁”。
txipiron是钩状的，清洁后会保留墨水。厨师说：“三分钟就足够把洋葱准备好了。”然后他回忆道：“何塞·胡安·卡斯蒂略总是告诉我，及时煮洋葱以去除苦味非常重要。”。阿根廷人将其定义为“简单、丑陋但美味的菜肴”。
第三道菜是酱汁鳕鱼。这种被钩住的鱼“因为有茴香，越来越难找到，所以我们必须冷冻它，也要改变烹饪点。我们寻找没有茴香的无须鳕，但它不是从这里来的”。艾劳多在平底锅里打开蛤蜊，撒上一点txakoli，把它们的汁留给绿色酱汁：“我们蒸无须鳕和绿色酱汁是传统的大蒜、欧芹和辣椒”。这是一个“非常稳定的产品，这就是你在餐馆里要找的东西”的食谱。
Airaudo谈到了价格（“我们不是非政府组织”），澄清说Ibai今天是一家新公司，问为什么我们应该像我们的祖母那样做饭，而他们没有像他们那样做饭，并简要概述了他带着成功和失败到几个国家的职业生涯。他的下一次冒险将在布宜诺斯艾利斯。
Paulo Airaudo and his passion for Basque cuisine
The Argentinian chef has created three traditional Basque recipes that he wants to refine: lobster salpicón, txipirones en su tinta and hake in sauce.
Paulo Airaudo (Amelia**, Donostia) is a "Basque chef who is not Basque", as Ignacio Medina introduced him. The Cordovan (from Argentina) has restaurants and stars halfway around the world, but today he has come to the Kursaal to talk about products and traditional Basque cuisine, which is what he does above all in his restaurant Ibai (Donostia), which he reopened a few months ago and where the weight of tradition plays an important role.
I knew haute cuisine, but I didn't have the slightest idea about Basque cuisine. At Ibai we try to refine traditional Basque cuisine. Why do we have to cook hake in sauce? We have to ask ourselves this question, because perhaps it would be better to steam it and finish it off in a sauce,' he explained, as a prelude to his presentation, which consisted of three recipes.
The first was lobster salpicón. In this recipe, 'we sought a very specific texture with the lobster, which arrives alive, is killed, the tail is frozen and then lightly vacuum-cooked with lobster oil'. Meanwhile, the claw is boiled. With this formula, "we try to respect a recipe used in the Ibai, although we make the coral emulsion in our own way. Our vinaigrette is more traditional, with an Italian vinegar infused with plum stones. When in season, we accompany it with some mini acid tomatoes, the perfect counterpoint. It's a simple, traditional dish," says Airaudo.
The second dish was txipirones en su tinta (baby octopus in its own ink): "We are following tradition with this," he warned. The squid are caught this morning and are "a very noble product". The sauce takes time, but it is pure and simple tradition: lots of onion, a little garlic and green pepper and a tomato that we bring directly from Naples, which is a little sweeter. We season this traditional sauce with roasted lemon juice and a little vinegar".
The txipiron are hooked and, when cleaned, they retain their ink. Three minutes is enough to get them ready," says the chef, before recalling that "José Juan Castillo always told me that it was very important to poach the onion in time to remove its bitterness. The Argentinian defined it as a "simple, ugly, but tasty dish".
The third dish was hake in sauce. This fish, which is hooked, "is increasingly difficult to find because of anisakis, so we have to freeze it and also change the cooking point. We look for hake to find it without anisakis, but it is not from here'. Airaudo opens the clams in a pan with a splash of txakoli, reserving their juice for the green sauce: "We steam the hake and the green sauce is traditional with garlic, parsley and chilli". It is a recipe with "a very stable product, which is what you are looking for in a restaurant".
Airaudo talked about prices ('We're not an NGO'), clarified that Ibai is a new company today, asked why we should cook like our grandmothers when they didn't cook like theirs, and also gave a brief overview of a career that has taken him, with successes and failures, to several countries. His next adventure will be in Buenos Aires.
