2024年10月7日，西班牙，圣塞巴斯蒂安 （San Sebastian，Spain）。第26届San Sebastian Gastronomika - Euskadi Basque Country今天开幕，当天大会颁奖典礼气氛热烈，主礼堂的演讲水平很高。有150多家参展公司的Kursaal热闹非凡，这届美食大会以“开放城市”为口号举办了第26届，在这一年里，它向城市开放，同时继续展望世界。
在开幕式上，大会主任本加明·拉纳指出，“如果说智人是烹饪动物，那么多诺斯蒂亚就是烹饪之城。我们来这里是为了证明我们作为厨师大会的地位，像往常一样，我们是有抱负的厨师大会，也是那些用锅碗瓢盆做饭的人大会。我们开设了Gastronomika餐厅，欢迎酒馆老板，他们将首次有一个专门的部分来讨论和了解他们的现实和问题。我们来这里是为了打破这座城市仅存的几堵墙，为我们的集体亲密关系、美食协会、来自外界、听了这么多但从未能够进入的与会者打开大门，并分享其他爱我们和钦佩我们的人的快乐。”。
Gastronomika认可了三位烹饪专业人士的工作，他们各自来自自己的领域，引领了烹饪的步伐。圣塞巴斯蒂安美食致敬奖授予Pedro Subijana（米其林一星Akelarre，Donostia），以表彰他在厨房工作的五十多年。Subijana不仅是创始人委员会的成员，还是25届国会的发言人。这位厨师坚持希望继续掌舵，强调了学会倾听和观察的重要性，并承认目前的团队是他在阿克莱尔50年来最好的团队。他大声、清晰、情绪化地说：“我不想退休。”。
这一次，Gueridón de Oro去了Mariano García，酿酒师兼Bodegas Mauro的总经理，Hilario Arbelaitz称他是“西班牙葡萄酒界最有影响力的人之一”，并向他颁发了该奖项。Pau Albornài Torras美食新闻奖授予了Lisa Abend，一位来自世界各地的独立美国记者，她能够发现并传播美食的新趋势和新价值观。
从葡萄牙到巴斯克烧烤，不停地“享受”
第一天也展示了这个版本的主线。João Rodrigues（里斯本卡纳拉）打破了僵局，突出了客人国葡萄牙的丰富性，并突出了小生产者的作用。出席礼堂的人“旅行”到丹麦，途经韩国，聆听克里斯蒂安·鲍曼（哥本哈根米其林二星Koan）的演讲，厨师在演讲中解释了他如何将亚洲传统与北欧技术相结合。马尔科·安东尼奥·伊涅斯塔（穆尔西亚Frases）昨天和今天也一起制作了蔬菜香肠。穆尔西亚被称为欧洲的菜园，这位厨师很乐意想象以他所在地区的蔬菜为主角的经典香肠。
Paco Morales和Paola Gualandi（米其林三星Noor, Córdoba）的演讲也与文化、想象力和传统有很大关系，因为他们解释了这家标志性餐厅的创作过程。”这位厨师说，有必要继续押注历史和传统。米其林三星Disfruta的三位厨师中的两位Oriol Castro和Eduard Xatruch为上午画上了圆满的句号，Disfrutar被选为2024年世界上最好的餐厅，他们展示了他们将最新的创新融入到他们总是令人惊讶的美食中。
下午，Ana Moura（Lamelas，Porto Covo）在Sara Peral和Jorge Muñoz（米其林一星OSA，马德里）强调家在他们的野菜中的重要性之前，准备了一道鱼和海鲜的米饭他们反映道：“时间总是最好的成分。”。Elena Arzak（米其林三星Arzak，Donostia）以她的演讲“Secundarios con estrella”结束了第一天的会谈；Pedro Sánchez（米其林一星Bagá，Jaén）用他的演讲“El pil pil como inspiración”向巴斯克美食致敬；Joan Roca（米其林三星El Celler de Can Roca，赫罗纳）在关于El Celler de Can Roca的美食如何散发赫罗纳风味的演讲中，对环境的个人看法是重点；塞巴斯蒂安·弗兰克（米其林二星Horváth，德国柏林）与他的“童年记忆”。
爱上巴斯克烤肉
巴斯克烤肉是什么让每个人都爱上它的？Bittor Arginzoniz（米其林一星Asador Etxebarri，Axpe，Bizkaia）和Aitor Arregi（米其林一星Elkano，Getaria，Gipuzkoa）试图在Benjamín Lana领导的愉快讨论中回答这个问题，也许是一个恶作剧问题。
Arginzoniz指出，他没有限制的优质产品是他烧烤的关键，这项技术与文化和起源有很大关系，也要求很多：他警告说：“只要我的身体能承受，我就会做饭，因为这是一项艰苦的工作和巨大的牺牲，岁月不会白白流逝，你会失去你的能力”。
Aitor Arregi谈到了归属感和在家工作的重要性，而不是从外面的噪音中知道谁是这个社区、这个领域的一部分。你不能失去这种特质”。
充满希望的挑战
人工智能及其在厨房中的可能性也将在圣塞巴斯蒂安美食节上发挥主导作用。在这一框架内，提出了一个有趣的挑战，即物理学家Eneko Axpe、化学家和Alícia基金会的厨师在这项技术的帮助下，在准备菜单时必须比Ricard Camarena做得更好，菜单将由观众在礼堂选择的五种配料的开胃菜组成；第二道菜以鳕鱼为主角，用盐煮或烤；以及一种将重新诠释胡萝卜蛋糕的甜点。明天，两支球队都将公布他们的提案，陪审团将对其进行评估，但不知道哪一个是AI提出的，哪个是Camarena的。
Gastronomika opens its 26th edition claiming San Sebastian as the city of cuisine and with an emotional recognition of Pedro Subijana
The 26th edition of San Sebastian Gastronomika - Euskadi Basque Country opened today with a day marked by the emotions of the congress awards and the high level of the presentations in the main auditorium. With a Kursaal with more than 150 exhibiting firms buzzing, the doyen of gastronomy congresses inaugurated its 26th edition under the slogan ‘Open City’, a year in which it opens up to the city while continuing to look at the world.
During the opening ceremony, Benjamín Lana, director of the Congress, pointed out that ‘if homo sapiens is the cooking animal, Donostia is the cooking city. We have come to vindicate our status as a congress of chefs, of high-flying chefs, as always, and also of those who cook in the pots and pans. We open the Gastronomika and welcome the tavern owners, who for the first time will have an entire section dedicated to debating and learning about their reality and their problems. We have come to break down the few walls that remain in this city and to open the doors of our collective intimacy, of the gastronomic societies, to the congress participants who come from outside and have heard so much and have never been able to enter, and to share the delights of others who love and admire us’.
Gastronomika has recognised the work of three gastronomy professionals who, each from their own field, have set the pace of gastronomy. The San Sebastian Gastronomika Tribute Award went to Pedro Subijana (Akelarre *, Donostia) for his more than fifty years in the kitchen. Subijana, as well as being a member of the Founders' Committee, has been a speaker at all 25 editions of the Congress. The chef insisted on his desire to continue at the helm, stressed the importance of knowing how to listen and observe and confessed that the current team is the best he has had in his 50 years at Akelarre. Loud, clear and emotional, he said ‘I am not thinking of retiring’.
On this occasion, the Gueridón de Oro went to Mariano García, oenologist and general manager of Bodegas Mauro, ‘one of the most influential men in the world of wine in Spain’ according to Hilario Arbelaitz, who presented him with the award. The Pau Albornà i Torras Gastronomic Journalism Award went to Lisa Abend, an independent American journalist who, from many parts of the world, has been able to detect, and of course communicate, the new trends and new values in gastronomy.
From Portugal to the Basque grill, without ceasing to ‘Enjoy’
The first day also showed the main lines of this edition. João Rodrigues (Canalha, Lisbon) broke the ice, highlighting the richness of the guest country, Portugal, and highlighting the role of small producers. Those attending the Auditorium ‘travelled’ to Denmark, passing through Korea, to listen to the presentation by Kristian Baumann (Koan**, Copenhagen), in which the chef explained how he combines Asian tradition with Nordic technique. Marco Antonio Iniesta (Frases, Murcia) also played with yesterday and today to create vegetable-based sausages. Murcia is known as the vegetable garden of Europe and this chef has fun imagining classic sausages with vegetables from his region as protagonists.
The presentation by Paco Morales and Paola Gualandi (Noor***, Córdoba) also had a lot to do with culture, imagination and tradition, as they explained the creative process of this iconic restaurant. ‘It is necessary to continue to bet on history and tradition’, said the chef. The morning was rounded off by Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch, two of the three chefs of Disfrutar***, chosen as the best restaurant in the world in 2024, who presented the latest innovations they have incorporated into their always surprising cuisine.
In the afternoon, Ana Moura (Lamelas, Porto Covo) prepared a rice dish with fish and seafood before Sara Peral and Jorge Muñoz (OSA*, Madrid) highlighted the importance of home in their wild cuisine. ‘Time is always the best ingredient’, they reflected. The first day of talks was brought to a close by Elena Arzak (Arzak***, Donostia) with her talk ‘Secundarios con estrella’; Pedro Sánchez (Bagá*, Jaén) who gave a nod to Basque cuisine with his talk ‘El pil-pil como inspiración’; the personal vision of the environment is the focus of Joan Roca (El Celler de Can Roca***, Girona) in a talk on how the cuisine of El Celler de Can Roca exudes Girona; and Sebastian Frank (Horváth**, Berlin, Germany) with his ‘Childhood memories’.
In love with the Basque grill
What is it about the Basque grill that makes everyone fall in love with it? Bittor Arginzoniz (Asador Etxebarri*, Axpe, Bizkaia) and Aitor Arregi (Elkano*, Getaria, Gipuzkoa) tried to answer this question, perhaps a trick question, in a delightful discussion led by Benjamín Lana.
Arginzoniz pointed out that the excellent product, to which he sets no limits, is the key to his grill, a technique that has a lot to do with culture and origin and which also demands a lot: ‘I will cook as long as my body can take it, because it is hard work and a lot of sacrifice, and the years don't pass in vain and you lose your faculties’, he warned.
Aitor Arregi spoke of the importance of the feeling of belonging to the community and of working ‘from home and not from the noise from outside to know who is part of that community, that territory. You cannot lose that idiosyncrasy’.
A promising challenge
Artificial Intelligence and its possibilities in the kitchen will also play a leading role at San Sebastian Gastronomika. Within this framework, an interesting challenge has been set in which the physicist Eneko Axpe, a chemist and a chef from the Alícia Foundation, with the help of this technology, must do better than Ricard Camarena when it comes to preparing a menu that will be made up of a starter with five ingredients chosen by the public in the Auditorium; a second course in which hake will be the protagonist, being cooked in salt or roasted; and a dessert that will be a reinterpretation of carrot cake. Tomorrow both teams will unveil their proposals and a jury will evaluate them without knowing which one has been generated by IA and which one is Camarena's.
