2024年10月8日，西班牙，圣塞巴斯蒂安 （San Sebastian，Spain）。第一届酒馆论坛再次聚集在 Kursaal的露台上， Kursaal已经变成了一个临时酒馆，大量的酒店和餐饮专业人士以及美食记者从一天开始到结束都挤满了房间。第二天，由美食家、侍酒师和酒馆老板Alberto Fernández Bombín主持的辩论集中在确定这类餐厅的关键，最重要的是，在变革的背景下，它对未来的具体挑战。
在最纯粹的传统酒吧风格中，每次谈话都伴随着传统的酒馆开胃菜，从培根和橄榄到三明治和炖菜。为了刺激食欲，四位传奇酒馆老板谈到了酒馆成功的关键。最常被提及的方面是它作为聚会场所和欢迎场所的作用。在我们今天谈论的空荡荡的西班牙，最后发生的事情就是酒吧关门了。El Fogón de Trifón的老板Jorge Trifón说，只要有酒吧，就有社交生活，这就是为什么酒吧在21、22或23世纪不会消失的原因。他也坚持炖菜的重要性。他补充道：“在家里，我们每天做饭，我们的炖菜让我们出名了。”。
阿斯图里亚斯布兰科酒吧（Cangas del Narcea）的灵魂人物Pepe Ron强调了“对行业的热爱，因为在酒吧里，与其他行业不同，与客户的关系至关重要，你必须每天站在酒吧的脚下，因为如果你不在那里，客户会注意到的”。马里奥·希门尼斯（Mario Jiménez）是经营传奇的El Faro de Cádiz餐厅和酒吧的第三代人，他强调了“明确并向团队传达概念并保持它”的重要性。在El Faro，我们不受潮流的驱使，但如果我们在camarones的tortilitas上失败了，我们就必须关闭。你必须知道你的本质是什么，你所在的地方的本质，我的红线是不能移动，”他说。最重要的是，来的顾客玩得很开心，感到受欢迎并想回来。Xabier Zabalet说：“信任是这项业务的关键，它始于良好的欢迎。”a，来自阿拉茨（圣塞巴斯蒂安）。
亲密，真实。移情。信任。Andoni Luis Aduriz（Mugaritz）、Sacha Hormaechea（Sacha）、皇家美食学院院长Luis Suárez de Lezo和San Sebastian Gastronomika总监Benjamín Lana在演讲中强调了完善的概念、培训团队并确保团队清楚概念和身份，他们表示需要“给予酒馆30年前我们给予高级美食的尊重和认可”。
Andoni Luis Aduriz说：“这家酒馆反映了它所处的环境。酒馆精神的精髓在于它们是聚会场所和包容性空间。在酒馆里，人们放松身心，平等地相互了解。它们是一个避难所，让人们在快节奏的生活中放慢脚步。它们也是观察生活的地方，是城市的真正象征。他们成功的部分原因是他们将两个不可避免的原则结合在一起：身份和领导力。他们之所以成为地方，是因为他们建立了社区。
论坛不想站在酒吧的一边。餐馆老板兼作家Andrés sánchez Magro的演讲探讨了“Parroquiano的DNA”。《Lo castizo en el siglo XXI》和《Tabernas de Madrid》的作者说，在附近有一家酒吧是你一生中最好的事情，并补充道：“parroqiano是酒吧里家庭的一员。”。Sánchez Magro还表示，美食的重要性日益增加，使传统酒吧的概念陷入危机：“他一生中的酒吧老板根本不在乎美食，今天他想在Baeza吃牛尾饺子。我们所知道的酒吧开始消失了。
葡萄酒是酒馆的重要组成部分，因此它的销售和品尝是酒馆的起源。论坛通过“酒馆中的侍酒师”的演讲讨论了当代葡萄酒酒馆，来自Guachinche La Suertita（特内里费岛）的Suso Pérez、来自Berria（马德里）的Juan Rivero、Carlos Bosch（阿利坎特El Portal）；来自La Tana（格拉纳达）的Jesús González和来自巴塞罗那Taberna Soleá的Kim Diaz。迪亚兹打破了僵局，指出酒馆允许葡萄酒民主化，尽管事实上今天的酒吧必须在葡萄酒（例如La Tana有1700个参考文献）、玻璃器皿和受过专门培训的专业人士身上花费大量资金。
在酒吧里，葡萄酒是一种投资。Carlos Bosch说：“如果你知道如何管理它，它就会变得非常有趣，但如果你不知道，它就会毁了你。”他补充说，普通侍酒师知道葡萄酒，但缺乏如何管理它的培训。侍酒师不仅要了解葡萄酒，还要知道如何深入到客户的层面，因为他的使命是销售。”Juan Rivero说。
这一天以“传统酒吧的复苏”会议结束，Manuel Urbano参加了会议，他在马德里La Malaje取得成功后，在El Rastro区开设了El Campillo，这是一家传统酒吧，提供两欧元的啤酒、开胃酒和杯子里的咖啡；陈明恒（Ming Heng Chen）从其前任老板Afrodisio Dios（别名“Paco”）手中接管了传统的代尔芬酒吧，条件是他教他烹饪，甚至教他讲卡斯蒂利亚笑话，如今他自豪地推出了他的Callos a la Madrileña和其他传统小吃。Eduardo Camiña（Pontevedra的Taberna Lagüiña Lieux dit）是一位屡获殊荣的侍酒师，他离开Mugaritz接管了他母亲在Pontevedra的酒吧，他也加入了进来，押注于一家提供简单食物和小吃菜单的酒吧。这表明酒吧反映了他们的社会和时代，正如Urbano所说，“必须有所改变，才能保持不变”。
The 1st Taverns Forum once again brought together on the terrace of the Kursaal, which has been transformed into a temporary tavern until tomorrow, Tuesday, a large number of hotel and catering professionals and gastronomic journalists, who filled the room from the beginning to the end of the day. On the second day, the debates chaired by gastronome, sommelier and tavern owner Alberto Fernández Bombín focused on defining the keys to this type of restaurant and, above all, its specific challenges for the future in a context of change.
In the purest style of traditional bars, each talk was accompanied by a traditional tavern starter, from bacon and olives to sandwiches and stews. To whet the appetite, four legendary tavern owners talked about the keys to success in a tavern. The most frequently mentioned facet was its role as a meeting place and a place of welcome. In the empty Spain we talk so much about today, the last thing that happens is that the bar closes. As long as there is a bar, there is social life, and that is why bars will not disappear in the 21st, 22nd or 23rd century,' said Jorge Trifón, owner of El Fogón de Trifón, who also insisted on the importance of stew. At home we cook every day and our stews have made us famous,' he added.
Pepe Ron, the soul of the Bar Blanco in Asturias (Cangas del Narcea), emphasised "the love of the trade, because in the bar, unlike in other businesses, the relationship with the customer is vital, and you have to be at the foot of the bar every day, because if you are not there, the customer will notice". Mario Jiménez, the third generation to run the legendary El Faro de Cádiz restaurant and bar, stressed the importance of "being clear and communicating the concept to the team and maintaining it. At El Faro, we do not live by trends, but if we fail with the tortillitas de camarones, we have to close. You have to know what your essence is and the essence of the place you are in, my red lines are not to move,' he says. The most important thing is that the customer who comes has a good time, feels welcome and wants to come back. Trust is the key in this business and it starts with a good welcome,' said Xabier Zabaleta, from Aratz (San Sebastian).
Closeness, authenticity. Empathy. Trust. A refined concept, training the team and ensuring that the team is clear about the concept and identity were also aspects highlighted in the speech by Andoni Luis Aduriz (Mugaritz), Sacha Hormaechea (Sacha), Luis Suárez de Lezo, president of the Royal Academy of Gastronomy, and Benjamín Lana, director of San Sebastian Gastronomika, who expressed the need to 'give taverns the respect and recognition that we gave haute cuisine 30 years ago'.
Andoni Luis Aduriz said that 'the tavern is a reflection of the environment in which it is located. The essence of the tavern spirit is that they are meeting places and inclusive spaces. In taverns, people relax and get to know each other as equals. They are a refuge that allows people to slow down in the fast pace of our lives. They are also places to observe life, true symbols of cities. Part of their success is that they bring together two inescapable principles: identity and leadership. They are places because they build community.
The Forum did not want to stay on one side of the bar. A presentation by restaurateur and writer Andrés Sánchez Magro explored 'The DNA of the Parroquiano'. Having a bar nearby is the best thing that can happen in your life,' said the author of Lo castizo en el siglo XXI and Tabernas de Madrid, adding: 'The parroquiano is the character who is part of a family in the bar. Sánchez Magro also said that the growing importance of gastronomy was putting the concept of the traditional bar in crisis: "The baruto of his life didn't give a damn about gastronomy, and today he wants to eat oxtail gyozas in Baeza. The bar as we knew it is beginning to disappear.
Wine is an essential element of the tavern, so much so that its sale and tasting are at the origin of the tavern. The Forum discussed contemporary wine taverns with the presentation 'The sommelier in the tavern', which brought together Suso Pérez from Guachinche La Suertita (Tenerife), Juan Rivero from Berria (Madrid), Carlos Bosch (El Portal, Alicante); Jesús González from La Tana (Granada) and Kim Diaz from Taberna Soleá in Barcelona. Diaz broke the ice by pointing out that the tavern allows wine to be democratised, despite the fact that wine bars today have to spend a lot on wine (La Tana, for example, has 1,700 references), glassware and professionals with specific training.
In wine bars, wine is an investment. If you know how to manage it, it becomes very interesting, but if you don't, it ruins you', said Carlos Bosch, who added that the average sommelier knows about wine but lacks the training to know how to manage it. The sommelier must not only know about wines, but also know how to get down to the level of the customer, because his mission is to sell," said Juan Rivero.
The day ended with a session on 'The recovery of traditional bars', which brought together Manuel Urbano, who, after the success of La Malaje in Madrid, has opened El Campillo in the El Rastro district, a traditional bar offering beers for two euros with an aperitif and coffee in a glass; Ming Heng Chen, who took over the traditional Bar Delfín from its previous owner, Afrodisio Dios, alias 'Paco', on the condition that he teach him cooking and even Castilian jokes, and today boasts his Callos a la Madrileña and other traditional tapas. Eduardo Camiña (Taberna Lagüiña Lieux-dit, Pontevedra), an award-winning sommelier who left Mugaritz to take over his mother's bar in Pontevedra, has also stepped in, betting on a wine bar with a simple menu of food and tapas. A sign that bars are a reflection of their society and their times, and that, as Urbano said, "something has to change so that nothing changes".
